Split is one of the most visited cities in Croatia, especially when talking about its beautiful coastline. And the best way to explore it is with a Corsario luxury yacht.
After many seasons of showing guests around these waters, our Split-to-Split route has become our client’s favourite. It hits all the highlight islands while avoiding that annoying backtracking feeling, and you end up right where you started.
Let us break down what this week looks like on the water.
Day 1: Split → Milna (Brač Island)
We meet at the yacht around noon, though honestly no one in Croatia is ever exactly on time (something you’ll get used to very quickly). After quick introductions and the safety briefing, we’re off. Watching Split recede as we head toward Brač island is pretty special – the city’s terracotta rooftops against the dramatic mountain backdrop is a lifetime experience.
About halfway across, we usually cut the engines for your first swim stop. Nothing beats that first Adriatic plunge – the water is ridiculously clear and so salty you barely need to tread water. This is when the crew breaks out the paddleboards and other water toys.
By late afternoon, we pull into Milna on Brač island. It’s not Instagram-famous like spots we’ll visit later. The harbor curves like a horseshoe, lined with stone houses with weathered green shutters. Old guys play cards outside the local bar, barely looking up as another yacht arrives.
For dinner, two great options: Kapetanovo Lozje serves tables scattered under ancient olive trees, and their grilled squid is delicious. Or try Konoba Bago, where there’s no printed menu – just whatever the owner caught that morning.
Day 2: Vis Island
The morning sail to Vis is a bit longer, about 2-3 hours depending on wind. Keep your eyes peeled because dolphins sometimes play around boats in this channel.
Vis has a completely different vibe than anywhere else we visit. Until 1989, it was a closed military zone where the Yugoslav navy had bases – no foreigners allowed. While that sucked for previous generations of travelers, it accidentally preserved Vis in a way that makes it special today.
As we approach, the water gets an impossible shade of blue. We usually anchor in Stiniva Bay – that famous cove where two cliffs nearly touch, creating a narrow entrance to a hidden beach. It got voted “Europe’s Best Beach” a few years back, which unfortunately means it’s not exactly a secret anymore.
After lunch and swimming, we head to Vis Town harbor. Walking around, you’ll notice how different it feels from more developed islands right away. Buildings show their age proudly, with architectural elements from Venetian, Austrian, French, Italian, and Yugoslav periods all mixed together.
History buffs go nuts for Vis. You can visit Fort George, built by the British in 1813. Even cooler are the military tunnels from the Yugoslav era – literal submarine hideouts carved into the mountains.
If parts of Vis look strangely familiar, that’s because they filmed “Mamma Mia 2” here – pretending it was a Greek island, which makes locals laugh.
For dinner, Vis is considered the culinary capital of Dalmatia. Don’t miss “viška pogača” – a bread filled with anchovies, onions and tomatoes that’s the island’s signature dish. Restaurants like Pojoda serve food a Croatian grandmother would make. Villa Kaliopa has tables scattered through a garden in the ruins of a 16th-century palace – it gives out a romantic atmosphere.
The local wine, particularly white Vugava, has been made here since ancient Greek times. It’s got this honey-mineral thing going on that pairs perfectly with seafood.
Day 3: Komiža
After breakfast, we sail around to Komiža on the western side of Vis. Where Vis Town feels a bit cosmopolitan, Komiža is definitely a fishing village first, tourist destination second.
The approach is gorgeous – the town sits at the foot of Hum mountain, with houses clustered around a wide bay. This is the real deal – a place where fishing isn’t just something they do for tourists, but the actual heartbeat of the community.
The big attraction near Komiža is the Blue Cave on nearby Biševo island. It’s incredible when conditions are right – sunlight penetrates through an underwater opening, making the entire cave glow blue while objects in the water look silver. But, it’s weather dependent, can have long wait times in peak season, and the actual visit lasts like 5 minutes.
Back in Komiža, check out the Fishing Museum housed in an old Venetian tower. It tells the story of the unique wooden boats called falkuša that local fishermen designed specifically for the rough open waters they had to navigate. These weird-looking vessels have been recognized by UNESCO as culturally significant.
Wander through the narrow streets where you’ll find tiny konobas (taverns) serving seafood caught that morning. Komiža is particularly famous for lobster – not the Maine kind with claws, but European spiny lobster. Try lobster pasta at Jastožera, where they simmer it in a tomato sauce with a splash of cognac.
After dinner, do like the locals and take an evening đir (pronounced “jeer”) – the ritual evening stroll along the waterfront. Grab an ice cream and watch as fishing boats head out for the night shift, their lights creating a moving constellation on the water.
Day 4: Korčula
The sail from Vis to Korčula is one of the longer stretches of our journey, crossing open water with views of islands dotting the horizon. It’s a good day to chill on deck with a book, occasionally looking up to spot a distant lighthouse or passing ship.
As we approach Korčula town in the afternoon, you’ll immediately see why they call it “Little Dubrovnik.” The medieval walled town sits on a small peninsula, with defensive towers creating a skyline straight out of Game of Thrones. This is one of those perfect photo moments, especially if we time it right with late afternoon light hitting the stone.
Korčula’s claim to fame is being Marco Polo’s birthplace. Venetians strongly disagree with this claim, which makes Korčulans push it even harder. There’s a house they say was his birthplace, about fifty Marco Polo souvenirs shops, and enough Marco Polo references to make you wonder if the guy ever actually left the island. It’s kind of endearing how committed they are to the whole thing.
But Korčula has way more going for it than just Marco Polo connections. The town’s streets are arranged in a herringbone pattern that’s actually practical genius – it blocks cold winter winds while channeling cool summer breezes through town.
The architecture here is stunning – the absolute best on our route. St. Mark’s Cathedral has intricate stonework by local master carvers, and the town museum displays artifacts spanning 2,000 years. But honestly, the best activity is just wandering the marble streets, discovering tiny squares and alleyways that feel unchanged for centuries.
If you’re around in the evening, try to catch a performance of the Moreška sword dance – this dramatic choreographed battle with real metal swords has been performed here since the 16th century.
Food-wise, Korčula has upped its game in recent years. LD Restaurant does creative takes on local ingredients, while traditional konobas serve hearty island classics. The local wines – particularly white Pošip and Grk varieties – are fantastic and rarely exported, so this is your chance to try them.
After dinner, head to Massimo Cocktail Bar, built into a medieval tower. You literally get your drinks delivered via pulley because there’s no room for a proper bar. It’s gimmicky but fun, and the views are irresistible.
Day 5: Hvar
From medieval Korčula, we head to Hvar – possibly Croatia’s most famous island, and for good reason. The journey takes us along Hvar’s southern coast, which has these incredible stone cliffs dropping straight into deep blue water.
Before hitting Hvar Town, we navigate through the Paklinski Islands – a scattered archipelago that looks like someone tossed emeralds into the sea. This is prime swimming territory, with dozens of perfect bays. Each island has its own atmosphere – Palmižana with its botanical garden and art gallery, Jerolim with clothing-optional beaches, or Marinkovac with beach clubs that start to chill and get progressively rowdier as the day goes on.
By afternoon, we pull into Hvar Town harbor, which is honestly a bit of a scene during high season. Yes, you might spot celebrities or see champagne being sprayed at beach clubs. But there’s so much more to Hvar than its party reputation.
First thing to do: walk up to the massive fortress overlooking town. It’s a bit of a hike but the view is impressive – you can see the red rooftops of town, the harbor filled with boats, and the Paklinski Islands spreading out into the blue beyond.
Back in town, the main square is huge – the largest piazza in Dalmatia – with a Renaissance cathedral on one end. Duck into side streets to find shops selling local lavender products (the island is famous for lavender fields) or family-run jewelry stores working with coral and silver.
For wine lovers, Hvar is a paradise. The sunny southern slopes produce exceptional reds, particularly from the Plavac Mali grape (related to Zinfandel). Several family wineries offer tastings, often with incredible views over the vineyards down to the sea.
After dark, Hvar transforms. The waterfront fills with people promenading between bars and clubs. What makes Hvar nightlife special isn’t just the venues but the setting – partying in centuries-old buildings, on terraces carved into rocks above the sea, or in ancient fortresses converted to cocktail bars.
That said, if you’re not into the party scene, the side streets away from the harbor offer plenty of quieter wine bars and restaurants where locals hang out. You can completely avoid the DJ-and-champagne scene if that’s not your thing.
Day 6: Stari Grad
After the potential late night in Hvar Town, we make the short journey around the island to Stari Grad (in english “Old Town”), which couldn’t be more different in vibe.
What’s cool here is the Stari Grad Plain (a UNESCO World Heritage site that preserves the ancient Greek system of agricultural land division). These geometric fields delineated by stone walls have remained in continuous use for 2,400 years.
In town, check out Tvrdalj, the fortified villa of Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović. He built this place in the 16th century as a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, complete with a fish pond, gardens, and philosophical inscriptions.
Stari Grad is perfect for slow exploration. The narrow streets are often draped with bougainvillea or grape vines, creating natural shade. Cats nap on sun-warmed stone walls, and there’s always some ancient architectural detail to discover around the next corner.
For active types, rent bikes to explore the Stari Grad Plain. The terrain is flat (unusual for Croatian islands), with routes connecting the town to small chapels, abandoned hamlets, and family wineries where you can stop for impromptu tastings.
In the evening, the waterfront fills with locals taking their post-dinner stroll. Join them before heading to dinner at one of the konobas tucked into the narrow streets. Jurin Podrum serves traditional dishes in a 500-year-old wine cellar, while Apolon offers more creative cuisine in a former merchant’s house.
After dinner, grab a spot at one of the harborside cafés for a digestif and people-watching. The stars are incredibly bright here due to minimal light pollution – a perfect end to one of the most relaxing days of the trip.
Day 7 – Sail back to Split
Instead of beelining this day, we take the scenic route along Brač’s southern coastline. This is where you’ll spot that famous postcard beach, Zlatni Rat. Weird name, but an interesting spot – it’s this white pebbly peninsula that changes shape depending on the currents.
The whole southern side of Brač is just ridiculous – massive white limestone cliffs dropping straight into water so blue it looks fake in photos. You can see why they’ve quarried stone here for centuries (fun fact: parts of the White House in DC are built with Brač stone.).
When Split finally comes into view, you’ll feel like months passed, not days.
Some guests crash after we dock, but some push through the post-boat laziness and wander Split again. Check out that corner of Diocletian’s Palace you missed on day one, climb the bell tower steps, or just park yourself at a café on the Riva and watch locals do their evening ritual – the whole city comes out around 7-8pm for the daily gossip session.
Reserve Your Own Croatian Island Adventure
Our Split-to-Split route hits the absolute sweet spots of the Dalmatian islands – giving you that perfect mix of history, beaches, food, and local culture without ever retracing your path.
While July and August offer the liveliest atmosphere, consider June or September for better value and fewer crowds but still-perfect swimming temperatures. Early October can be magical too – the sea stays warm well into fall, but tourist numbers drop dramatically.
Drop us a line at Corsario Yachting to catch your preferred dates. These islands never get old, but they do get booked up fast!