We’ve all seen those perfect Instagram shots of Croatia’s blue waters. But what those filtered photos don’t tell you is how the salty air feels on your skin as you sail between islands, or how that grilled fish tastes when it was swimming just hours before landing on your plate.
After organizing countless trips along the Dalmatian coast for our guests at Corsario Yachting, we’ve seen which spots make people’s jaws drop and which experiences they’re still talking about years later.
So, here’s our actual day-by-day breakdown of the Split to Dubrovnik route that keeps our clients coming back.
Day 1: Split → Milna (Brač)
Split harbor is chaotic, especially during summer. Tourists dragging suitcases, ferries honking, locals shouting across to each other. It’s messy, loud, and a complete disaster.
If you can, show up a day early and wander through Diocletian’s Palace. Yeah, it’s the obvious tourist thing to do, but it’s worth it. This isn’t some velvet-roped ancient site – people actually live here!
Laundry hangs from windows built into 1,700-year-old Roman walls. You might see kids kicking a ball around the same spot where an emperor once walked.
Grab a coffee at one of the cafés in Peristil Square – they charge tourist prices but sometimes you just have to pay for the setting.
However, make sure to come back to the harbour on time, because our yacht charter leaves at noon. If you’re 2 minutes late, don’t worry, we’re pretty relaxed about timing because, honestly, this is Croatia and nobody’s in a rush.
Once we’re out on the water, the transformation begins. Look behind you as Split’s terracotta rooftops get smaller, then turn forward toward Brač island growing on the horizon.
About halfway across, we cut the engines for your first swim stop. Seriously, nothing beats that first dip into the Adriatic. The water is so salty you practically float without trying, and so clear you can count pebbles 10 meters down.
By late afternoon, we pull into Milna on Brač island. It’s not as famous as some stops later in the trip, which is exactly why we love it. The harbor curves like a horseshoe, lined with small stone houses. Old men play cards outside the local bar or watching at the latest newspaper, barely looking up as another yacht arrives.
For dinner, you’ve got choices. Kapetanov Lozje serves tables scattered under olive trees. Their grilled squid is killer – just the right amount of char, with nothing but olive oil, garlic, and lemon.
Or try Konoba Bago, where the owner might tell you what his father caught that morning and recommend how you should have it cooked. No printed menus here – just whatever came in on the morning boats.
Day 2: Hvar & Paklinski Islands
Breakfast on deck is tough to beat. Fresh bread from the local bakery, some local cheese, maybe some prosciutto, and strong coffee while the crew prepares for departure.
But before hitting Hvar Town, we navigate through the Paklinski Islands – a scattered archipelago that looks like someone tossed a handful of green jewels into the sea. This is where the magic happens.
Each cove has its own character – Palmižana with its botanical garden, Vinogradišće with that restaurant where you eat with your feet practically in the water, or tiny Jerolim where some beaches are, um, clothing-optional.
The water here is ridiculous. Not just blue, but like someone messed with the color saturation settings in reality. We usually drop anchor for a few hours of swimming, paddleboarding, or just floating around with a drink in hand.
By mid-afternoon, we cruise into Hvar Town harbor. Look, Hvar has a reputation as a party spot, and sure, you might spot a celebrity or see a €500 bottle of champagne being popped at one of the beach clubs. But there’s so much more to it.
First thing you need to do is to walk up to the fortress. The view from the top is magical – you can see the red rooftops of town, the harbor filled with boats, and the Paklinski Islands spreading out into the blue beyond. Bring water and your camera.
Back in town, the marble square around St. Stephen’s Cathedral is pedestrian-only and perfect for people-watching. Duck into the side streets to find shops selling lavender (Hvar’s famous for it) or local wines.
Speaking of wine – you’ve got to try some Plavac Mali, the local red grape. Seafood is the obvious dinner choice here, but Hvar’s lamb is also amazing, especially if it’s been cooked under a “peka” (a bell-shaped lid covered with hot coals).
Restaurant-wise, Mediterraneo has a great spot overlooking the water and does modern takes on traditional dishes. Their black risotto made with cuttlefish ink is amazing! For something more traditional, Dva Ribara serves the kind of food Croatian grandmothers make.
After dinner, Hvar offers everything from quiet wine bars to pumping clubs. The town genuinely transforms after dark, with a buzz that’s hard to find elsewhere on the Dalmatian islands.
Day 3: Vis
The morning sail to Vis is longer than to other islands of the journey – about 2 hours of open water. Keep your eyes peeled because dolphins often play around boats in this channel. Vis has a different vibe than anywhere else we visit.
Until 1989, it was a closed military zone where the Yugoslav navy had bases, meaning no foreigners allowed. While that sucked for previous generations of travelers, it accidentally preserved Vis in a way that makes it special today.
Most boats approach Vis from the northeast, which gives us a chance to stop at Stiniva Bay – that famous cove where two cliffs nearly touch, creating a narrow entrance to a hidden beach.
It got voted “Europe’s Best Beach” a few years back, which unfortunately means more crowds now. Pro tip: go early or late in the day, or ask your skipper about equally beautiful but less Instagram-famous spots nearby.
After dropping anchor in Vis Town harbor, you notice how different it feels from Hvar right away. The pace is slower. Buildings show their age proudly. There’s an authenticity here that’s increasingly rare.
History buffs go nuts for Vis. You can visit Fort George, built by the British in 1813 (yeah, they controlled the island briefly). Even cooler are the military tunnels from the Yugoslav era – literal submarine hideouts carved into the mountains.
Vis is also where they filmed “Mamma Mia 2” – pretending it was a Greek island, which makes locals roll their eyes. You can visit several filming locations if you’re into that.
But the real star of Vis is the food. This island is considered the culinary capital of Dalmatia. Try “viška pogača” – a bread filled with anchovies, onions and tomatoes that’s the island’s signature dish. Restaurants like Pojoda serve food your Croatian grandmother would make. Or Villa Kaliopa, where tables sit in the garden of a ruined palace.
The local wine, particularly white Vugava, has been made here since ancient Greek times. It’s got this honey-mineral thing going on that pairs perfectly with seafood.
Day 4: Komiža & Blue Cave
On the western side of Vis lies Komiža, which might just be Croatia’s most authentic fishing village. While Vis Town shows its Venetian heritage, Komiža feels more rugged, with simpler stone houses bunched around a wide bay beneath Hum mountain.
The timing of this day depends on one thing: visiting the Blue Cave on nearby Biševo island. This sea cave has a small underwater opening that, when the sun hits at the right angle (usually mid-morning), creates an otherworldly blue glow. Everything in the water looks silver, while the cave itself radiates blue light.
Here’s what the tourist brochures don’t tell you: in peak season, there can be long waits, and the actual visit inside the cave lasts only about 5 minutes. Is it worth it? Absolutely. But managing expectations helps. Also, rough seas can close the cave entirely, so have a backup plan.
Back in Komiža, the Fishing Museum (housed in an old Venetian tower) tells the story of the unique wooden boats called falkuša. These weird-looking vessels were specifically designed to race out to distant fishing grounds and return loaded with catch. UNESCO recognized them as culturally significant, and you can usually see a replica in the harbor.
The town’s narrow streets hide tiny konobas (taverns) serving seafood caught that morning. Komiža is particularly famous for lobster – not the Maine kind with claws, but European spiny lobster. The traditional dish is lobster pasta, where the shellfish is simmered in a tomato sauce with a splash of cognac.
After dinner, do as the locals do and take an evening stroll along the waterfront. Maybe grab a scoop of lavender ice cream or a glass of prošek (sweet dessert wine) while watching fishing boats return with their lights glowing in the dusk.
What makes Komiža special isn’t any specific attraction but rather how little it’s changed. Fishing isn’t just something they do for tourists – it’s still the lifeblood of the community. When you eat here, that “seafood fresh from the ocean” is literally what happened that morning.
Day 5: Korčula
The sail from Vis to Korčula gives you a chance to relax on deck and take in the shifting blues of the Adriatic. We usually stop at one of the secluded bays on the south side of Hvar island on the way – spots like Luka Zaraće or Skrivena Luka that rarely see big tour boats.
As we approach Korčula town, you’ll understand why they call it “Little Dubrovnik.” The medieval walled town sits on a small peninsula, with round defensive towers and terracotta roofs creating a scene straight out of Game of Thrones. This is one of those perfect photo moments, especially if we time it for late afternoon when the stone walls take on a golden hue.
The town has this unique herringbone street layout that was actually built for practical reasons – it reduces the cold winter winds while allowing summer breezes to circulate.
Korčula claims to be Marco Polo’s birthplace, and while historians debate this (Venetians strongly disagree), the locals have fully embraced it. There’s a Marco Polo museum, Marco Polo souvenirs, and even a house they claim was his birthplace. Is it true? Who knows, but it makes for good stories over dinner.
Speaking of dinner, Korčula’s food scene punches way above its weight for a small town. LD Restaurant does amazing things with local ingredients – their slow-cooked octopus with potatoes will make you want to kidnap the chef and bring them home. Konoba Mate in nearby Pupnat (a short taxi ride) serves traditional dishes in a farmhouse setting that hasn’t changed in generations.
After dinner, catch a performance of the Moreška sword dance if you can. It’s this dramatic traditional dance where two groups of men battle with real metal swords, representing the struggle between Moors and Christians. Tourists love it, but it’s also genuinely part of local heritage, not something invented for visitors.
Korčula’s nightlife is more low-key than Hvar’s – think cocktail bars with stunning sea views rather than thumping clubs. Try Massimo Cocktail Bar, built into a medieval tower. You literally get your drinks delivered via pulley because there’s no room for a proper bar.
Day 6: Mljet
The morning cruise to Mljet is usually pretty calm, with incredible views of the Pelješac peninsula to your right. Mljet is different from our previous stops – it’s much greener, with nearly a third of the island protected as a national park.
We dock in Pomena or Polače, tiny settlements that serve as gateways to the park. The star attractions are two saltwater lakes – Veliko and Malo Jezero (Big and Small Lake). They’re connected to the sea by a narrow channel but feel like inland lakes, with incredibly calm, clear water that’s slightly warmer than the open sea.
In the middle of the larger lake sits a tiny island (yes, an island on an island) with a 12th-century Benedictine monastery. You can rent bikes to cycle around the lakes – the path is about 9 km and offers ridiculous views at every turn. Or rent kayaks to paddle across to the monastery. If you’re feeling lazy, there’s a small electric boat that does regular trips.
The swimming here is gorgeous. Because the lakes are sheltered and shallow, they get warmer than the open sea, and the deep blue-green color against the pine forests is just stupid beautiful. We’ve had guests literally cancel plans for the rest of their day just to spend more time floating in these waters.
Wildlife spotters will love Mljet – it’s home to mongoose (introduced centuries ago to control the snake population), wild boar, and tons of bird species. The forests smell intensely of pine, especially on hot summer days.
For lunch or dinner, options are limited but good. Konoba Ogigija in Polače serves super-fresh seafood right by the water. Try the black risotto if you haven’t already had it elsewhere – just remember it’ll temporarily stain your teeth, so maybe not if you’re planning romantic moments later!
Evening on Mljet is all about the silence and relaxation – stargazing from the boat deck, maybe with a glass of travarica (herb brandy) in hand. The lack of light pollution makes for incredible night skies. We’ve had guests spot satellites, shooting stars, and even the International Space Station passing overhead.
Day 7: Dubrovnik
Our final day’s sail takes us to the undisputed jewel of the Adriatic – Dubrovnik. But before reaching the city, we make a stop at the Elaphiti Islands, a small archipelago just offshore. Šipan, Lopud or Koločep all have gorgeous swimming spots with much fewer crowds than you’ll find near Dubrovnik itself.
As we approach Dubrovnik in the afternoon, the massive city walls come into view, and it’s a genuinely jaw-dropping moment. Even if you’ve seen photos a million times, nothing prepares you for the real thing – this perfectly preserved medieval city rising directly from the sea.
We dock either in the main harbor or in a marina just outside the city, depending on availability (Dubrovnik gets seriously busy in summer). Then it’s time to explore the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site that somehow survived centuries of conflicts, including heavy shelling in the 1990s during the Croatian War of Independence.
Walk the city walls first. The full circuit takes about two hours and gives you ridiculous views over the old town’s terracotta rooftops, the Adriatic on one side, and mountains on the other. Go later in the day if possible, when the cruise ship crowds have thinned and the harsh midday sun has softened.
Inside the walls, the main street (Stradun) is all polished limestone that glows almost white in the sunlight. Duck into the side streets to find much cooler, quieter spots. Visit the Franciscan Monastery with one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies still in operation, or the Rector’s Palace with its Gothic-Renaissance architecture.
Game of Thrones fans will recognize countless filming locations – the steps where Cersei did her walk of shame, the fortress that served as the Red Keep, and more. There are specific tours for this, but honestly, you’ll stumble upon these spots just walking around.
For your final dinner, you’ve got incredible options. Proto offers traditional Dubrovnik seafood recipes dating back centuries, while Restaurant 360° has earned a Michelin star for its contemporary takes on local cuisine, served on a stunning terrace atop the city walls.
After dinner, find a cliff-side bar like Buža (literally built into a hole in the city walls) for a farewell drink overlooking the sea. It’s touristy but magical, especially as the sun sets and the old town lights up for the evening.
Want to Discover Croatia’s Islands with Corsario?
Our Split-to-Dubrovnik route hits the best spots of the Dalmatian islands – giving you that perfect mix of history, beaches, food, and local culture without ever retracing your path.
While July and August offer the liveliest atmosphere, consider June or September for better value and fewer crowds but still-perfect swimming temperatures. Early October can be magical too – the sea stays warm well into fall, but tourist numbers drop dramatically.
At Corsario Yachting, we’re sharing our home waters, favorite sunset spots, and the local connections we’ve built over years.
Don’t wait too long to book though – the secret of Croatia’s coastline definitely isn’t a secret anymore, and prime weeks fill up faster every season. Reach out to the Corsario team today, and let’s start planning your perfect Adriatic escape.